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3 Answers

Hello,
I have a question regarding the need for a rainscreen between the lath and building paper on a closed cell insulated wall. What is the best way to do this, and is this necessary if the building is in southern California? I have two inches of closed-cell spray polyurethane foam sprayed against interior of the plywood sheathing.

Thanks!

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By andrew shu | Jun 7 13
1 Answer

Our home has a crawl space under the living space of the home as well as a partial basement to one side. We had a plastic vapor barrier over the clay floor of the crawl space.

A contractor who did some work on the home advised that this was incorrect, removed the plastic vapor barrier from the clay floor of the crawl space and instead installed insulation along the top of the crawl space (beneath the floor of the home) with a vapor barrier covering this.

In General questions | Asked By Chris Draper | Jun 6 13
5 Answers

Just wanted to ask for your advice:

In Mechanicals | Asked By Rita Friedman | Jun 6 13
2 Answers

A client asked me about them on a big reno we're doing. I always assumed they were largely hokum (sp?). Can't find much research on the web on the subject. Seems to be "can't hurt."

THe house is just outside Portland ME. Plenty of trees around, tallest structure for several hundred feet, but it's also hilly, reasonably high housing density, not in a field in the middle of nothing else above shrub height. Is it worth the effort to install a system? Anyone actually seen any research?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dan Kolbert | Jun 6 13
10 Answers

I live in Zone 4A, the house was constructed in 1968. 2x4 walls with unbacked yellow fiberglass. Interior has paneling over drywall (it was built that way). Exterior is 3/4" plywood with a foil backed paper and polystyrene filled aluminum siding.

I'm having the siding removed and replaced with 2" of foamular and Certainteed vinyl siding. Can I expect anything dramatic in terms of energy savings?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Pete Strohs | Jun 5 13
3 Answers

Hi all, great site here, I've found lots of helpful information already.

I recently bought a 35 year old house in a Zone 6 area and it needs a new roof. This seems like the best time to do the attic insulation, but with all the expenses of our first home we're running low on cash. We've budgeted around $5K for the whole project this summer and plan to do as much as possible ourselves. I've read through many articles here and on buildingscience.com but I'm kind of stuck.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Spencer Jackson | Jun 5 13
1 Answer

Hi there, I live in Florida. We will have a new roof in a few days if the rains in Florida stops.

For our sloped roof they will install "a Polyglass TU Plus Waterproofing Underlayment Fastened," and for our flat roof they will install "an SAV Modified Bitumen Base Sheet, Direct Deck Application per Code and Install as SAP White Granular Cap Sheet, Torch Applied over Modified Base Sheet."

Is this hot tar that they'll use? My knowledge is limited and I plan to ask the contractor.

In General questions | Asked By d k | Jun 5 13
4 Answers

We didn't produce this video -- it was actually produced by Builder magazine -- but it features two people known to GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com readers, Dan Morrison and Peter Yost.

Dan and Peter visit a construction site in Arizona, and inspect air barrierBuilding assembly components that work as a system to restrict air flow through the building envelope. Air barriers may or may not act as a vapor barrier. The air barrier can be on the exterior, the interior of the assembly, or both. details and water management details.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Martin Holladay | Jun 5 13
2 Answers

I am looking at a renovation job that involves adding a second floor to an existing one-story house. The existing outside walls are 8" concrete block with stucco.

The homeowner wants to keep these walls intact since the stucco is in great shape and the windows are new.

In order to comply with the stretch energy code we may need to insulate these walls. Is there a viable way to insulate these walls without disturbing the exterior and/or causing moisture issues? I am in climate zone 5a - New England.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Rob Huss | Jun 4 13
1 Answer

Are you familiar with this product?
http://www.foursevenfive.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_i...

It is a through-wall HRV with an embedded ceramic plate. The way it works is it reverses its flow every 70 seconds, sending air through the ceramic plate and using its thermal mass as a heat exchange.

I am wondering if anybody has used this product and has any comments?

Also, the big question is, does this thing meet ASHRAE 62.2 requirements?

Thanks

In Green products and materials | Asked By Zac Shore | Jun 5 13
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