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2 Answers

I have read your comments extensively and find the information very helpful. However, I have several concerns about my proposed construction.

I plan to construct a vented cathedral ceiling using pre-engineered wood trusses at 24" on center with 2x12 top chords in a Zone 4A location. The IRC 2012 allows R-30 for cathedral ceilings less than 500 SF or 20% of the total roof and my project qualifies for this exception.

My proposed construction includes:
1. Composite polymer shingles over Zip-system 5/8" sheathing and ice dam protection at the eaves

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By James Enloe | Jul 14 14
1 Answer

(Zone 4c)

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Nick Welch | Jul 14 14
3 Answers

I am building a earth-sheltered passive block home. I want to insulate it all from the outside. I have been trying to get Roxul Drainboard in 3.5 inches but cannot afford a whole truckload to do a small home. So I'm thinking of using 4 inches of XPS foam under slab and all walls.

Any suggestions for water proofing exterior of block and fastening XPS to all the walls?

Thank you.
Michael

In General questions | Asked By michael holler | Jul 11 14
2 Answers

We are in a 5A climate zone, near Chicago. We wanted to add a retractable pool enclosure up against an existing house that would be used year round. http://www.libart.com/evolution-lean-to-structures

The existing house has a wall construction what has fiber cement siding, 1" rigid insulation with taped seams, Tyvek, 5/8" plywood, 2x6 framing with open cell insulation and drywall on the interior. See attached image. Keep in mind that this wall was build 9 or so years ago.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nathan Kipnis | Jul 11 14
3 Answers

Hi there~
I am a homeowner in Philadelphia, PA. I am wanting to renovate a building as energy efficiently as possible and my limits are by funding. My plan is to stretch funding by phasing in things. Windows are an immediate need. My windows research let me to a thread on this site discovered Intus windows. I will be reaching out to a dealer tomorrow (closed today). And, I'm wondering if anyone has a estimate of pricing. The windows seems incredible in terms of efficiency, and I'm concerned they will be out of my league financially. Maybe compare to an Andersen series 400 window.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Terrie Lewine | Jul 13 14
3 Answers

Would installing vertical furring strips next to the sheathing and behind the rigid foam help the wall to breathe and still maintain R values? I am in Zone 7 and considering adding foam to the exterior since I am residing. Or is this just overkill? Thanks for any replies.

My wall from the inside out would consist of:
Paint
1/2" Drywall
Poly Vapour barrier
2"x4" studs ( fiberglass batt insulation)
3/8" plywood
** 1/4" furring strips **
2" rigid foam
Tyvek building wrap
Hardie Plank siding

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Bee | Jul 13 14
7 Answers

I'm looking for a detail for integrating an insect screen with vertical corrugated metal siding that is meant to function as rainscreen.

Are the typical metal J-trims and flashings enough to keep bugs out of the corrugated flutes or is there a better way?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Daryl Ross | Jul 12 14
4 Answers

In a conversation with a tenant earlier today....

The tenant (a PHD Cello student) had visited Israel last summer. When Green Building came up, he commented that ALL houses in Israel have Solar Hot Water Tanks installed. Ok, I will presume he is off by 50%, still 50% vs .....how many in the USA.....less than 00.1% as a guess. [And I doubt he toured many rural areas vs metropolitan.]

So my question is, what are we doing wrong...or what are they doing right. Yes, I realize the climate is different. Is it the laws, the need, the desire, or is is technical!

In Green building techniques | Asked By John Granoski | Jul 12 14
3 Answers

I am in the research phase for building a house in MA (would be my first), and find myself on board with almost all of the consensus best-practice ideas here on GBA: super-insulation, air-tightness, simplicity of design, small buildings, etc.

In General questions | Asked By Ethan Fahy | Jul 11 14
1 Answer

We are replacing a roof structure on a portion of our 1832 timber frame home with regular framing (17' x 20'; 20' is horizontal roof span). Due to the 4' kneewall and 5 pitch roof, the ceiling height in the peak of the room is only 8', so we want to retain the cathedral ceiling in this large room. We are using a laminated 14" ridge beam and 2 x 10" rafters (16" OC), with no rafter tails (maintaining the original structure design with the timber frame). We are climate zone 5, Marine (SE Michigan, between the big lakes).

In Green building techniques | Asked By Emily Rusnak | Jul 12 14
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