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2 Answers

Bathroom venting concerns

I have a 2 story/2-unit balloon-frame building from 1929, plus a hip roof. The 1st and 2nd floor bathrooms are on top of each other on the back center of the building. Both have fans, but neither vent to the outside!! We have mold/moisture concerns in the back rooms of the house. No wonder.

Venting each fan has a separate issue.

In General questions | Asked By A. Bradford | Oct 12 14
6 Answers

How do I cost effectively insulate the ceilings of my detached garage?

I have a 22x22 detached garage with a 15x15 addition on the back (both gable roofs) that I'm turning into a shop. I live in Iowa and have run a gas line to it and have purchased a gas heater capable of heating. I would like to heat the garage at low heat and will crank it for shop time. Each space has 2x4 rafters, but no insulation, no ridge vent or other roof venting and only one of the two spaces allows free flowing air to enter the building through the rafters running beyond the building envelope as the 22x space has wood blocking.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Matt McDevitt | Oct 12 14
9 Answers

How can I attach a ledger to an outside brick wall for a deck?

How can I attach a ledger to an outside brick wall for a deck when foam is used on the outside of sheathing?

I have 3 inches of foam then a 1 nice air gap, and I need advice on how to attach the ledger.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By michael kasales | Oct 9 14
5 Answers

Truly "smart" thermostats and boiler controllers?

Well, my new boiler is in (a Lochinvar WHN-85, with a Lochinvar SIT 40 indirect water heater). As far as I can tell this early in the season it's working fine. But, I've been thinking about my thermostats and how they communicate with the boiler, and wondering if there might be a better way.

My old boiler was a standard dumb boiler. Each circulator was on if its thermostat was calling for heat, and the boiler was on (full blast) if a circulator was on and the water temp wasn't at the limit. True bang-bang control.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Daniel Griscom | Oct 11 14
0 Answers

Rheem's condensing water heaters (storage)

Hi,

My 14-year-old electric water heater is starting to look a little long in the tooth. Time to upgrade.

So, I'm looking for intel on Rheem's Professional Prestige Series: High Efficiency Condensing Power Direct Vent (RHE50) or its sister sold by Home Depot - Rheem EcoSense High Efficiency Power Direct Vent (ECORHE50).

I can't find any online reviews of either product (save one favorable review on HD's site).

For several reasons, I'm looking at a high efficiency storage water heater instead of tankless.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Michael Brahmey | Oct 11 14
13 Answers

Should my indirect hot water heater have a mixing valve?

I have a 2300 square foot colonial, built 1960 in Massachusetts (Zone 5A), with three zones of fin tube baseboard. There's a 75 gallon whirlpool tub which we almost never use; the two showers are fairly low-flow. Heat loss done by Comfort-Calc.net was 55,840. I use town water, which is very good quality (Quabbin reservoir). I've accepted a bid to replace my heating system with a Lochinvar WHN-85 boiler and SIT40 indirect water heater.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Daniel Griscom | Sep 15 14
1 Answer

#2 about noise from outside

my question below was answered about putting in new window. i already knew that. and i've already tal ked to landlord, they will do nothing. . aside from these two things, could you let me know if closed-cell 2" foam , or 2" acoustical tiles will help at all? just wondering what i can try in addiction to the things i have tried that are mentioned in my note below. thank you, cindy

In General questions | Asked By Cynthia Oeser | Oct 10 14
17 Answers

Correct way to use closed-cell insulation on a roof?

I'm rehabbing an old 3-story brick building in Pittsburgh. The roof is a flat roof but pitched from front to back. I got estimates to spray closed-cell on the underside of the roof and essentially encapsulate the structure. There is a 'space' between the 3rd-story ceiling and the roof, so if I drywall the 3rd-story ceiling, there would then be an air space above the drywall. I'm also planning on installing a new rubber roof. So I guess I have several questions:

1. Is applying closed-cell to create a barrier at the underside of the roof the correct way to go?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Murphy | Oct 8 14
2 Answers

Skirting for Cabin

My cabin was built on piers and has no skirting to protect the pipes beneath the house. I'm trying to find something that's energy efficient and attractive. In searches on the internet, all the skirting I find seems to be for mobile homes. Can you suggest skirting materials that will work best for keeping out the cold in the mountains of North Carolina? Currently it just has tar paper and lattice ... (The cabin is on a knoll and gets some very cold wind).

Thank you!

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Leslie Elliott | Oct 10 14
4 Answers

What's goin' on! Rigid foam insulation / WRB shrinks?

I did not join GBA until after the issues of "shrinking foam" were discussed. I used it for a WRB/exterior insulation combo without having understood that there might be an issue. I used Tuck (sheathing tape), Weathermate flexible flashing and Windlock cap head screws to install it. Topped up with Vytec (division of CertainTeed) split shake style siding.

Earlier this week I read the FourSevenFive.com's recent series of "Foam Fails" articles. This is undoubtedly very controversial and has serious legal liabilities associated with it.

In General questions | Asked By flitch plate | Oct 10 14
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