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2 Answers

HI all

Thanks to Dana and Martin (and others) for earlier comments and guidance on my new house build. To be filed under the you cant make this $hit up, it burned down right before we moved in (VOC spontaneous combustion - re stain rags on the pine ceiling/walls really can occur).

soooo, we get to take apart what we just built and analyze it. and improve upon it the next time (deconstruction under way now, framing to start about labor day).

In Green products and materials | Asked By pat rowland | Aug 18 14
5 Answers

I just stumbled upon a type of clay brick that is apparently gaining popularity in Europe but seems totally unknown here in the USA. Example: http://www.juwoporoton.com/products/

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Nathaniel G | Aug 16 14
5 Answers

We are building a new house with geothermal heat and a lite form basement and lite deck first floor floor. The first floor wall assembly is board and batten cedar siding on Tyvek drainwrap on 7/16 OSB on 2x6 girts at 30" oc with 2x4 vertical framed walls. We have R40 SIPs panels on the roof under a metal roof. We are planning on 2" of closed cell insulation on the walls. I have been reading about including batt insulation as well and was wondering if anyone had a recommendation either way?

We are also including a fresh air exchange in the HVAC system.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lori Loehr | Aug 13 14
6 Answers

Here's the scenario:

48' x 104' building in climate zone 5. 48' x 64' of that area will be unheated garage space. I'm still debating the merits of insulating this area. The other park of the building, 40' x 48' will be heated only (no a/c). The area above that is a room in attic area that will be conditioned year round. The room in attic area is 20' x 40', with two 10'x11' spur areas that were allowed by implementing a gable dormer on the main dormer roof line.

My proposed attic ventilation is as follows:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Rick Van Handel | Aug 11 14
5 Answers

I'm putting recycled 4" XPS under my slab. Zone 6. Do the joints need to be sealed with anything? I'll put poly on top, under the concrete.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By stephen sheehy | Aug 11 14
1 Answer

A few days ago, the friendly folks on this site helped me come up with a basic attic insulation plan for my house. However, there's a potential issue that I could use additional input on.

First, a quick description of the house/project:

- House is in Northern NJ (climate zone 6A)
- Built in the mid-1940s
- Stick construction
- Relatively simple gable roof currently covered with asphalt shingles that will probably need to be replaced in the next five years
- The roof stops at the edge of the house - there are no eaves/soffits, and thus no eave/soffit vents

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Matt Culik | Aug 11 14
1 Answer

I had my roof replaced about 5 years ago. I recently noticed that the shingles overhang most of the roof by 3/4 inch and the water runs directly off.
But in the middle part of the fascia on the back of my home the shingles are flush with the drip edge.
The drip edge lays flat against the top of the fascia, this allows water to actually run down the fascia getting it wet, And some parts are actually rotten.

What can i put there to make the water run off the roof like all the rest of the house?

Here is a link to a youtube video i took of the edge for you.

In General questions | Asked By Tony Bean | Aug 13 14
19 Answers

I'm planning to build a house in Southern Ontario with a slab on grade (actually about 2' above grade) foundation. The slab won't be heated, but will be very well insulated. The house itself will also be very well insulated. There will be a moderate amount of south facing glass with a reasonably high SHGC (around .6).

I'm weighing two different flooring options for the main floor. The first is polished concrete, with the use of some area rugs. The second option is an engineered wood floor, also with the use of some area rugs.

In General questions | Asked By Graham Fisher | Aug 12 14
1 Answer

I'm getting ready to build a home near Indianapolis, Indiana, and I've been referring to the Building Science material for guidance on best practices for construction. When I look through the Building Profile for a Mixed-Humid Climate: Louisville it mentions the use of rigid insulation sheathing. It also notes that in mixed-humid climates (like Indianapolis), roof and wall assemblies are best designed to dry to both the exterior and interior, but the is not always possible when rigid exterior insulating sheathings are used.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Tyson Clemmer | Aug 17 14
8 Answers

I have a question about a situation that a relative has encountered. Zone 5 (SE Michigan), an addition has been added to an old house. The addition has an exposed floor on piers, built with trusses. There is some pink batt insulation near the top of truss cavity, and two inches of foam (XPS) covered by plywood at the bottom. The problem is that the (pex) plumbing which runs from main house and then along bottom of floor has frozen up repeatedly.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By andrew c | Aug 15 14
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