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3 Answers

PolyIso inside 1949 brick veneer walls?

This 1949 Cape Cod style home is in SW lower Michigan just a short distance south of the zone 5A-6A line. My goal is to reach toward the 6A standards, esp. with the long, very sustained cold we had last winter.

The walls are very porous: brick veneer (but for upstairs, clapboard dormer), Insulite Bildrite Sheathing, and what appears to be mineral wool insulation in the wall cavities. The interior walls are covered with a smaller (2' x 4' ish--judging by the seams that are showing) type of gypsum panel that was apparently used at that time.

This is a modestly sized house

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Grant Vandermeulen | Jul 21 15
1 Answer

100+ year old brick basement... how to weather/waterproof?

I live in a 1890s brick row home in Chicago (5A climate zone). When we bought the house 5 years ago, the previous owner had finished the basement. Over the course of the past few years, it became evident that there was moisture building up behind the drywall, as parts began to ripple and even crumble near the baseboards. This spring, I removed the bottom 2 feet of dry wall around the perimeter, which exposed the brick foundation, and standard 2x4 studs that had been treated with some sort of mold resistant compound on the bottom 12" (and, as guessed, some mostly drywall!).

In General questions | Asked By Amanda Scaletta | Jul 21 15
1 Answer

Sealing & insulation of rim joints (brick house)

Hi. I have a 1951 cape which is mostly brick/block except for this room in question, built in 1980, which is brick veneer with a wood frame. There is a bedroom above it and a sided wood dormer begins at the top of this room on the side with the fireplace, and the other side w/ the bay window is the eave of the roof. I am working on replacing the ceiling and noticed that the rim joists only have fiberglass insulation packed in,which I'm sure was typical for the time.

In General questions | Asked By G S | Jul 21 15
19 Answers

Cathedral SIPs are sweating in summer

I have a new home built with SIPS, closed cell polyurethane, R40 roof and R24 walls. The SIPs were installed/built spring of 2014, we moved in Feb 2015. The home is timber frame with Metal unvented roof, the roofer did use vertical furring strips and double bubble over felt. We live in KY and are just now getting into high humid summer, and our center ceiling beams are dripping wet throughout the day, causing small puddles on the floor. The ceiling is hot to the touch at the very peak on either side of the center beam. I believe hot outside air is leaking in.

In General questions | Asked By Jeremy Ballard | Jul 12 15
7 Answers

Controlling humidity levels in unvented attic space

We have three attic spaces that are sealed with open cell spray foam. There are HVAC systems in all three spaces. We live in Herndon, VA. I checked temperature and humidity levels the other day and found the attic spaces to be running about the same temperature ( 76 degrees) but 10% to 12% higher in humidity (54% first floor vs. 65% attic space). Is there a need for us to be concerned about this differential and if so how would we reduce the attic space moisture levels? We do use the attic spaces for storage. Thank you.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Woody McMahon | Jul 8 15
11 Answers

Foam in the middle - Will it stand the test of time?

I've done a lot of looking/reading and I must not be searching with the right key words. I can't find anyone else that has built this style of wall/roof (layer of foam in the middle) but I'm sure someone has.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Carl U | Jul 17 15
9 Answers

Best strategy for waterproofing and insulating a half block/half brick basement?

I live in a 1920's home in Central Ohio (Climate Zone 5A). The basement has an exposed French drain (ie, the weeping holes, trench, gravel and tile are there, but have not been covered with concrete) with sump pump. The basement is 2/3rds below ground, with the walls made up of half cement block (bottom portion) and half brick and mortar (top portion). The brick and mortar is partially above ground and is covered on the exterior with a stone and mortar veneer.

In Plans Review | Asked By Matt Bierlein | Jul 13 15
1 Answer

Grading/slope around house and using gravel

I am in the process of re sloping around the foundation of my house. Can anyone recommend what slope I need?

Also, I have been thinking of using crusher run and tamp it to the proper slope around the foundation. Then installing black 6 mil plastic. On top of this my land scape river gravel. At the end of the slope would be a French drain.

Does anyone see any problems with using the crusher run to slope or using the plastic the way I am talking about?

In General questions | Asked By don gilbert | Jul 20 15
10 Answers

Adding rigid insulation?

Hi, I've been reading through information for a few days now, and am honestly more confused now than when I started. I'm sure this question has been asked before but I couldn't find anything specific to my area(zone). Here is my situation... Thanks in advance for all replies.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Mike Watts | Jul 16 15
6 Answers

Moisture concerns with double stud in 4a?

Hi all,

First off, this is a great website! I have been reading all that I can on super-insulated homes and this site has been a huge help.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Clay Whitenack | Jul 17 15
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