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8 Answers

How to spec high performance windows?

So I've done quite a bit of reading on windows. I'm finishing up the details of a high performance home build in Ottawa, Ontario (Zone 6a/7a equivalent), and need to get my window performance nailed down before I can have a Manual J completed.

In General questions | Asked By Lance Peters | May 9 17
2 Answers

Horizontal steel siding on house

We are going to be applying 6" of polyiso foam to the outside of our house. It will likely be 3 layers of 2" material. I have concerns related to the potential waviness of the siding plane. The steel siding, applied horizontally, seems to be very unforgiving. Has anyone tried this? And with what success?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Steve Young | May 10 17
14 Answers

Hot water tank under basement floor?

I have been planning on putting a water tank under the basement of a construction house in Zone 6B. The purpose is to give me a versatile way to store heat.

The heat could come from many sources including capturing the heat from waste water, active, or batch solar hot water, or a heat exchanger on the Masonry wood stove.

The heat could be used to temper the cold water before it enters the hot water heater, heat floors, or preheat EVR air.

All of this is for future use. I just think it makes sense to put it under the floor since it is doable.

In General questions | Asked By Jim Sweazey | May 9 17
1 Answer

What is a good and resilient approach to weatherizing a log home?

I recently audited a log home in central Vermont (climate zone 6). Unsurprisingly, it was really very leaky (19ACH50). The client is willing to go fairly deep with regards to weatherizing the home, and we both agreed that a reasonable approach seemed to be building a 2x wall inboard of the existing logs and filling the stud bays, including a varied amount of space behind the new stud wall. I would prefer to hold the new stud wall at least an inch off the logs, if the lose of interior space would be acceptable.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Bailey | May 9 17
5 Answers

Foundation planning for a self-supporting porch

I am curious as to how a pro would design a basement foundation to allow for the addition of a shed roof (porch or carport). I have significant snow loads in my area (90#) and I think it makes the most sense for the structure to be self-supporting rather than be dependent on a ledger board. Regarding the adjacent basement walls and foundation, does anyone have a suggestion as to what the most prudent approach would be when pouring the foundation and walls? I know the backfill around the house will be considered "disturbed soil" so I am curious to hear what might a good approach.

In General questions | Asked By John Brown | May 9 17
12 Answers

I would like to ask some questions about attic insulation in a place with very mild weather

Our house was built in 1907 in the South Park neighborhood in San Diego. It is a two story Foursquare Craftsman with 3200 square feet of living space. The home is located right under the landing path of airplanes going to the San Diego Airport which as the crow flies is 3 miles from our home. We have two major problems, no insulation and too much noise.

Our house is located in IECC 2009 Climate Zone 3 a place with very mild weather.

San Diego weather between 2010 and 2016 had:
zero days below 32 degrees Fahrenheit
number of days when temperatures reached at least 70 degrees F:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Leda Felicio | May 8 17
1 Answer

What is the best housewrap and/or insulation to use with rainscreen and siding?

I live in a 200 year old log home that currently has wood siding that needs replaced. I am going to replace the siding with Boral Truexterior beveled lap siding which is a coal ash composite. I am also going to install Stuc-o-flex Waterway 7mm rain screen.

The house had problems venting with the current ship lap siding. Since I am removing the siding from the log I am considering also adding a house wrap and/or insulation.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By SDaws | May 9 17
5 Answers

Cathedral ceiling rebuild

i live in whistler, canada (zone 6, tons of snow) in a 1970 cabin with recurrent ice damming issues.
we have 3 simple 12/12-pitch shed roofs (no valleys or hips) with no overhangs which i plan to rebuild from the outside (i'm a handy homeowner).

i have thoroughly read and understand all the pertinent articles on this site, and others.
i'm hoping for some feedback to make sure i don't waste time/money/materials, but cost and simplicity are priorities.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Clark Lewis | May 8 17
7 Answers

Air barrier transition from taped sheathing to ceiling drywall

Trying to plan out how to handle the air barrier transition from taped exterior sheathing to drywall on 2nd floor ceiling. Clearly we have to seal the sheathing to the top wall plate, and we assumed we’d use construction adhesive for this. (Also assuming that tape wouldn’t work in this location since roof trusses will have to be set subsequently.) From there we thought we’d just install ceiling drywall first, tight against the top plate, then apply some sealant along that seam before pushing the wall drywall up into it. Same thing for partition walls.

In Green building techniques | Asked By William Costello | May 8 17
6 Answers

Insulating an aluminum cargo trailer

Hello greatest community on earth!

I am going to insulate an enclosed cargo trailer and I am pretty sold on the expanded cork for the project. My question is what other products should be applied in addition to the cork insulation...do I need a heat shield of some sort between the aluminum siding and the cork and then on the inside, do I need a vapor barrier between the cork and the inside pine paneling?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Ken

In Green building techniques | Asked By Smithksor | May 8 17
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