Minisplit Lineset Insulation
I’m getting ready to have sheetrock installed, and I’m just wanting to run this question by a few people for reassurance and/or advice before closing everything up.
I have mini-split line set coming in at the base of an exterior wall and running up just behind top plate at gable end (see photo). The line-sets do have insulation but it doesn’t look very “substantial” (second photo shows close up). There were a few tiny flaws in insulation after they were installed here, which I don’t believe penetrated through the insulation, but I stuck a piece of tape over any area that had any minor gouges. I’ve also laid some mineral wool insulation around the insulated line-sets.
Does this look like it will probably fly? I live in NE Kansas where it does get humid in the summer. I really don’t want to pull out the insulation and wrap the line-sets with additional material if it’s not necessary, just because I’m running out of time before drywall installers are scheduled…..but I WILL if anyone feels this is “risky” in any way.
Any comments/advice appreciated
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That looks like typical lineset insulation. As long as the insulation is not damaged with bare copper pipe visible, you should be fine.
Wonderful! Thanks!
If I have time, I may try and wrap it with line set tape just to be on the safe side (but I may not have time)
Line sets loose very little heat because of the insulation in the walls, the only reason to insulate them is to keep moist air away from the lines and prevent condensation. The insulation on there is good enough for that.
Exterior of the house, it might be worth it to wrap the pipes with a thicker layer if they are long. Any heat loss there is truly lost. If they are short, the loss is so small that is not really worth while worrying about.
With a big reno, there are better places to spend your time on.
P.S. Nail plates area always good above any wire/pipe even if at the correct depth. The one time I skipped on a nail plate, ended up putting a screw through one of my AC power lines while hanging a shelf. An hour or two of installing nail plates is definitely worth it.
I can’t tell from the photos if that are in the middle of a 2x6 wall you are good if it is 2x4 wall you need a plate. The tubes could be damages by a 2 inch drywall screw where I put the red box adding a steel plate to prevent that possible damage would be a good idea.
Look at the condensate drain like very closely often this line is very thin plastic that could be damaged easily.
Walta
Thanks Walta!
They are 2x6 walls, and I just added a couple of stud protectors on the top two boards just to be on the safe side. PVC pipe was installed for condensate drain on one of the air handlers and braided vinyl tubing was was used on air-handler #2 due to a more convoluted path to the exterior.
Feeling like I can relax now!
:)
That was a good catch on Walta’s part. By “stud protectors” do you mean the steel nail plates commonly sold for use to protect electrical wires where they get too close to the edge of a stud? Generally you want to use those whenever you’re getting close to 1” from the edge since screws are usually sized for 1” penetration into a stud. It doesn’t hurt to mark the location of the line on the floor as a warning to other trades too.
Bill
Good idea to mark the floor as well.
Yes I meant the steel nail plates commonly sold for use to protect electrical wires. Don't know if they were truly necessary but had a couple so I put them on the top two boards since the hole angles in a bit toward the top.
Thanks to everyone!
Ideally you want to use one of those nail plates on EVERY stud where something is close to the edge that needs to be protected. The purpose of those plates is to stop drywall screws and nails before they can puncture whatever you're trying to protect. Nail plates are cheap, and the box stores sell them in small quantities. I strongly recommend you buy a few more so that you can put them everywhere they're needed.
Bill
My electrician put them wherever the holes he drilled were outside the "acceptable" range, and the hole drilled for the line-set was technically "fine"...I just put them where the hole was closest to the inside surface (they're 1-1/4" from inside surface of stud at the closest point)
I did, however, install a few larger plates to protect Pex pipe that was basically "at" the inside surface of the wall and attached to the studs. It even protruded very slightly beyond the inside surface of stud due to a slight curvature of pipe. I inadvertently punctured one when stapling up some cardboard to "protect" them (hah!)...In hindsight, I think it was a good thing. Made me realize how easy it would be for sheetrock people to damage them mid-installation, which would be a real bummer. Plumber installed them that way because they were in a North wall and was trying to leave as much space between it and insulation as possible.. He did install one plate at the base of the plumbing vents...I think that's standard treatment...maybe even "code"(?)...but because they don't usually install pipes that close to the interior side of studs, I think they just overlooked the risk factor.
Planning to warn sheetrock people about these locations...Especially because there are two small areas they will be installing 5/8" sheetrock...Want to make sure they don't use the same screws for any of the rest, which is 1/2".