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Community and Q&A

Foundation and Footer Waterproofing Product

cmcgrath09 | Posted in Energy Efficiency and Durability on

I have read a few articles on hear, but having a hard time finding some the products mentioned especially locally in Northern NH (zone6). What easy apply product would you recommended to apply on the footer (through all my building friends think I crazy for wanting to do that) before the wall is poured. then on the wall. We are pouring this week or next. So availability is key.

Lastly for the footer drain, my site work guy (my father in law) suggests the black pipe with slits in it that comes in rolls , but looking on line I feel 4in 10ft long  white sewer pipe  with 2 holes in would last longer and less likely to crush. Suggestions?

Thanks again, really have learned alot reading the articles and the Q&A topics.

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  1. kbentley57 | | #1

    Prefer the pvc pipe over the corrugated.

    If you’re on a 2 week time frame, that might be long enough to have something shipped from an online store. Did you have a product in mind?

  2. Expert Member


    Definitely stick to the perforated PVC pipe over the corrugated black stuff. The flexible pipe can have dips, meaning it it may not drain, is much harder to clean if blocked, and the joints aren't glued, so come apart easily.

    1. dennis_vab | | #3

      The perforated pipe available locally for me is not pvc, but hdpe actually. It doesn’t glue with cement from what I could tell. I ended up fitting it and putting a few sheet metal screws per connection. Just to keep it together until stone was in place.

      Definitely the white perforated pipe over the black corrugated pipe.

  3. cmcgrath09 | | #4

    Thanks you for the reply's. As for the waterproofing, It looks like PROTECTO LWM200 would be the best product, but I cannot seem to find it online any were. So I am hoping there is a product at works at Lowes or home depot, or event local hardware store, but when I go in those places and ask they think I am crazy. Guy at Lowes keeps pushing me to use garage floor epoxy.

  4. cmcgrath09 | | #5

    Would this product work? Dry lock extreme. We have used it at work in clean out canals and it seemed to hold up, but I do not think it can be applied to green concrete?
    Thanks again,

    1. dennis_vab | | #6


      I just went through this as my foundation walls were recently poured. I ended up using a product from WR Meadows for the capillary break on the footing. How many days has it been since the footings were poured? The drylok would work other than applying it to green concrete as you mentioned. I don’t know what the implications would be if you still used it. Also, I don’t know if there would be any issues with damage to the drylok as forms are being put up.

      My recommendation would be to go to someone who sells waterproofing locally, and find a fluid applied or sheet applied membrane that is in stock. Sheet applied will be a little harder to apply making it fit around the rebar.

      1. cmcgrath09 | | #11

        Thanks did you apply the WR Meadows stuff to the concrete when green? I do not want to hold up my foundation guys. As everyone local thinks I am nuts for even doing it. Plus I had to put a deposit back in October to get him in for may.

        1. dennis_vab | | #12

          The product was called hydralastic 836 and it’s allowable to apply it to green concrete.

  5. Expert Member
    PETER Engle | | #7

    Nearly anything will work here, as 100% performance is not mandatory. Sheet and liquid applied membranes are probably best. Bituthene is a classic foundation waterproofing membrane and would be available at commercial supply houses. Ice and Water shield would also work. Even the asphaltic brush-on damp-proofing that every mason uses on the exterior of the foundation walls would work. You're really just trying to slow down any moisture absorption by the concrete foundation walls.

    1. paulmagnuscalabro | | #8

      I was going to suggest the same thing (brush-on damp-proofing) as maybe the easiest / cheapest / fastest solution. I'm not sure exactly what situation(s) you're working with, Chris, but I'm assuming you'll have a basement / crawl space? For what it's worth, I don't believe a capillary break is needed for slab on grade.

      1. cmcgrath09 | | #10

        Yes full basement with a walk out on section of walk out on two sides.

  6. GBA Editor
    Kiley Jacques | | #9

    Hi Chris,

    You might be interested in how Ben Bogie approached the Capillary Break at the Footing for the project he is building and GBA is following. He made use of the same company that waterproofs the foundation walls for the footings. This video includes a shot of the capillary break installation.

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