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How to for simple flat interior trim

bennettg | Posted in General Questions on

What’s the best way to do interior flat (rectangular cross-section) trim, particularly for where door casings and base meet?

I think typically, trim around windows and doors is set up with a reveal so that slight variations where the parts butt aren’t noticeable.

For instance, I’d think the door casing would be slightly thicker than the base trim so that there is a reveal where the base meets the casing.

What is standard practice?

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #1

    Bennet,

    Either using different depths of trim, or separating them with a small fillet (as in the accompanying image), or at the base of a door a plinth block. How much you elaborate the trim with molding and depends entirely on what feel you are looking for.

    1. bennettg | | #2

      Thanks, Malcom. We're looking for a Contemporary/Modern look with very simple flat trim with broken edges. No cornice, fillet moulding or plinth blocks. Door casing that is thicker than the base seems like a workable approach.

      1. Expert Member
        MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #3

        The less the edges are eased, the easier it is to match similar depth pieces. : Look at the interior shots of this house where they used one sized trim. It gives a very crisp look.
        https://www.smithandvansant.com/#/contemporary-weekend-house/

        1. jberks | | #10

          If like to note on this one, a lot of the window and doors are trimless. (Looks like the ones on exterior walls due to a thicker)

          Ps. I hate trim. I prefer to do the flush look. I think we're all good enough these days that we don't have to cover stuff with bandaids anymore.

      2. Expert Member
        Akos | | #5

        If you use the same material for door trim and baseboard, you can miter the intersection. A bit fussy to get the length/angle right but avoids the issue with eased edges.

        I normally extend the casing down the floor and butt the baseboard against the side. Fill the eased edge by the baseboard with a bit of caulk for a clean look.

  2. brianvarick | | #4

    You have to pre build the casing with fast setting glue. A lot of guys also use dominos or biscuits to strengthen the joint. That way you know the trim will be flush despite what the wall does.

  3. Yupster | | #6

    Here is some trim I custom made from standard flat stock. It's a lot of work, especially in an old house with no straight anything, but I think the end result is pretty sharp and more visually interesting than plain flat trim but still very modern! I think you can buy a similar trim from Metrie, in the Very Square collection.
    You do have to biscuit every joint and getting the double miter cut on the casing just right is tricky (again, much easier if your floors and walls are reasonably level).
    For inside corners, the joint shown below makes for a really excellent no-show joint that doesn't require caulking or fiddling for days with miters. I can explain how to cut the joint if you are interested.

  4. bennettg | | #7

    Thanks so much, everyone. That's some slick miter work. From the discussion, using pocket screws for those joints isn't nuts, just one way, as with biscuits and miters, to get the trim to align if it's the same thickness. Biscuits seem like the casing-base joint would go together pretty efficiently. Thanks again, everyone!

    1. Expert Member
      MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #8

      I pocket screw exterior window and door trim, and if the stock is thick enough, do the same on the interior. With shims you can still use them on the back of trim of unequal depths.

  5. walta100 | | #9

    We went for a simple modern look. No miters, No briskets No reveal just air driven trim nails. The trim is pre primed particle board.

    Walta

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