GBA Logo horizontal Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Picture icon Hamburger Icon Close Icon Sorted

Community and Q&A

Insulation between refrigerator and oven?

3UeQ4PFCAw | Posted in General Questions on

Our lake cabin was built with the refrigerator next to the oven. Have read this is not feasible, but no option in changing the positions. What product can I double stick to the side of the refrigerator to protect it from the heat of the oven and burners?

GBA Prime

Join the leading community of building science experts

Become a GBA Prime member and get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

Replies

  1. jklingel | | #1

    How much room do you have? What is "double stick"? Sheet rock an option?

  2. davidmeiland | | #2

    Your concern is the cooktop damaging the refrigerator? Or, excess heat from the cooktop causing the refrigerator to work harder?

  3. 3UeQ4PFCAw | | #3

    There is only abour 2 inches between the refrigerator and oven.
    The refrigerator is being replaced because the burner steam from boiling corn bubbled it's side.
    I thought if I could find a large hot pad I could stick it to the refrigerator. Black refrigerator, black oven, black hot pad?

  4. user-659915 | | #4

    I take it that it's not just an oven but a stove top right next to the refrigerator. You appear to have enough room for a separating panel but your biggest issue is that any vertical surface immediately adjoining the stove burners needs to be flame-resistant and noncombustible. A plywood panel lined with tile or stainless steel might do it.

    But apart from the heat transfer concern it really is a bad idea not to have at least 12" or so of counter space beside the stove so that you can easily remove a pan from the burner in an emergency. If there's any possibility of changing this arrangement please consider it.

  5. davidmeiland | | #5

    Yeah, it doesn't sound like an ideal arrangement. I can't think of anything you could stick directly to the side of the refer except for maybe space shuttle tiles? A piece of stainless sheet metal with an air space behind it might help, but you should really find a way to get more clearance.

  6. gusfhb | | #6

    a piece of 24x24 430[magnetic] stainless is about 50 bucks from mcmaster. Half a dozen half inch thick magnets, viola, heat shield.

    Or a piece of mild steel from the hardware store and a can of your favorite spray paint, to be renewed when required.

    As mentioned not the best setup....

  7. user-659915 | | #7

    @ Keith: not a bad idea except that stainless steel is not magnetic. You'd have to epoxy the magnets to the s/s sheet before slapping it on the side of the refrigerator.

  8. user-651098 | | #8

    Carol Ann
    You need a heat shield and an air space. I'm not sure if this idea will take the heat (no pun intended), but it's a suggestion.
    Most roofing tin is 29 or more inches wide. It comes in different gauges and colours.
    Galvanized steel would reflect the heat. Black would absorb it. The colour may depend on your artistic and design preference.
    Buy a piece which is as long as the fridge is high. A heavier gauge metal may provide better protection and not buckle under the heat.
    Different roofing profiles have a variety of rib heights. Make sure the ribs are shallow. (1/2 inch or so)
    Buy two 'U' shaped steel bars the same length as the steel. The open channel of the "U" will need to be about 1 inch (or less) wide, because you only have two inches of space to work with.
    Also get four metal flat bars which are as long as the steel is wide. The bars could be about 1/8th of an inch thick and 1.5 inches wide. You might find these bars at a metal fabricating or machine shop or a good hardware store.
    Buy 8 short (3/4 to 1 inch) self tapping metal screws (colour to match steel) or one inch roofing screws. Buy a high speed metal drill bit which is a tiny bit narrower than the shank of the screws.
    Lay the four bars across the 'U' bars in a ladder. (One at either end. Each of the other two would be placed 1/3 of the way from each end.) The open side of the 'U' faces inwards.
    Lay the sheet of tin down on this ladder. Clamp the steel to the 'U', locking the cross bars in place. Make sure the rib of the steel lays over the center of the intersection of the cross bar and the ‘U’. At this point, drill a pilot hole through the steel rib, and the cross bar into one side of the 'U'. Then drive in the screws. (If you use roofing screws, remove the gaskets). Remove the clamps.
    Stand this rig up and squeeze it between the fridge and stove. Lean it into the fridge slightly for support.
    After a trial period, you may find that you need to screw the steel to the middle of the crossbars to prevent the steel from buckling or ‘oilcanning’.
    The heat may bubble the steel, but, hopefully, this will protect the fridge.
    A few words of caution. The steel may get very hot. You may have to be cautious about burns along the exposed edge.
    The edge of the steel sheeting may be very sharp and can cause serious cuts. You might want to crimp the exposed edges and the corners.
    If you have a range hood, use it to increase the air movement and reduce the heat.
    This is just an idea, no guarantees. Jim.

Log in or create an account to post an answer.

Community

Recent Questions and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |