Quality Windows for zone 6 recommendations
I’m looking at windows for my new home build and Ive called alpen and Pella so far. Alpen are amazing windoes but at 1000$ for a 30×48 I think they are too expensive for me. Pella I’m afraid won’t have quite enough u value for what I’m after.
I live in south eastern WI we would be considered zone 6 but sometimes we get those huge -20 temps for a week or two and then in summer we get the 100 degree days on occasion as well so wildly different temps. It’s not uncommon for 40-50 degree temp changes daily.
I’d appreciate any thoughts anyone might have on a quality window with great u factor that may be more affordable for me. I tried looking on the passive house website but there were only like 3 that were in zone 6. I don’t need passive levels of insulation but I’d like the best I can personally afford.
Thanks for any recommendations,
Tom
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I can't recommend any specifically, but am a little ways into researching windows with the possibility of swapping out some of my worst offenders. Most of the research has focused on cz5, so may/may not be super applicable, but here it is incase it's at all helpful.
Before anything though, I'd start with the Fine Homebuilding Webinar <aCornerstones of Comfort: How to Choose Windows and Doors. It was really helpful in matching products with goals. There are so many windows to choose from; that webinar did a great job in simplifying the search. https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2021/01/11/the-cornerstones-of-comfort-how-to-choose-the-right-windows-and-doors-for-your-climate
Along with some brands that were identified in the webinar, I combed through the GBA archives to for other recommended brands from the Expert Members among us. In no particular order these were the brands that came up repeatedly:
https://thinkalpen.com/products/tyrol-series-windows-doors/
https://www.zolawindows.com/upvc#Slide4
https://eurotekwindows.com/
https://logicwd.com/tilt-turn-windows/
https://www.loewen.com/dealers/view-point-inc/
https://www.sierrapacificwindows.com/Product/Detail/Window/Casement/Vinyl/New%20Construction%20Casement%20-%208000%20Series
Martin has written a pretty thorough article on this:
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/what-windows-should-i-buy
Thank you I’m not sure what happens it appears my question posted multiple times.
This is a good report, thanks for the link. Still very disappointing with regards to the availability/cost/service of high performance windows in North America, but never-the-less a pretty good summary.
Wisco,
I'm not familiar with your market- but it may be worth exploring Canadian window options given your relative proximity to the border and the favorable exchange rate. Duxton and Koltech make pretty good windows and are based in or have a presence in Manitoba and Ontario, respectively.
I know Duxton makes a tilt/turn window with a u-factor of .18 and Koltech one with a u-factor of .15. If you are aiming for Passive House levels in CZ6 then you'll want windows that are .15 or lower.
I’m aiming for but won’t achieve passive I’m sure but I’m going to do my best so my house is energy efficient as I can possibly afford .
What's the square footage of glass on your project?
Right now I don’t have a square footage number I’m still in the design phase so some windows have gotten smaller or all together eliminated. What I have been doing is each company I talk to I have them give me a bid for a 30”x48” and that’s my baseline amd helps me to weed out any that are way to expensive or that just won’t even come close to my goal of energy efficiency
I'm using Loewen windows on a project right now. I have a quote for $687.65 for a 47.25x39.375 (120cmx100cm) fixed window. U-value is 0.15, SHGC is 0.5, visible transmission is 0.62.
Their operating windows are quite a bit more, an awning would be over $1300. You don't say whether your price point is for opening or fixed.
This is a stock size, custom sizes are more expensive. It is a custom finish, stock finishes would be slightly less.
I'd check out Fiberframe/comfortline for high quality reasonably priced windows, including low U-factors if you go for triple pane low-e argon. The are a little cheaper than Loewen, which are also great and have better options if you want beautiful wood on the interior.
https://www.fiberframe.com/
One of my customers has used Inline Windows. Looks like they have a number of options.
https://www.inlinefiberglass.com/products#fiberglasswindows
Seemray is an imported European window.
It appears that a 35x41 is $558. A 61x37.5 is $889.
Thank you all for the reply’s. Does anyone have an opinion on Pella fiberframe windows? I have a few companies I’m already in contact with and will continue to reach out. Serviceability and company longevity are important to our business. I’m a second generation business owner and my son will be the third.
I installed triple pane Fiberframe windows in my home and am very happy with them. Very easy and transparent company to work with. They are not full width 1 3/8” IGUs however. I got a u value of ~0.2 without having to add i89 coating. You can get to about a 0.23 with double pane and i89, but need to consider condensation, size of the windows and comfort effects. I would download Cardinal Glass technical manual and give it a read.
If Polaris Ultraweld windows are available near you and you don’t mind vinyl, they might save you some money. They have some glass packages with nice u values, but watch the VT as I assume some would be pretty dark.
Wasco Windows would be a good choice for someone in southeast Wisconsin. Their product seems similar to other US makers of Rehau windows. When we got a quote from them a couple years back their prices were competitive with other mainstream windows like Pella and Marvin. We ended up going with Marvin Integrity instead and they’ve been fine, but I doubt they are comparable to Wasco in terms of U value and air infiltration.
https://wascowindows.com/european-windows/
Designing a house around windows?
I'm designing a house in which windows will be the last thing I'll be aiming for: my heating requirements are a lot milder than those in WI. However, I've run a Manual J on my hypothetical build in order to get some idea of what would work for a PHIUS-level home (prescriptive).
Keep in mind that it's the window framing that tends to bring down overall thermal capabilities. A lot of small windows will create more energy loss than a single one of the same area. Furthermore, more windows mean more flashing etc.. My point here is that, IMO, you're working backwards here. If you are here for energy efficiency as your starting point then you need to understand what kind of numbers you need to match up to. If you're looking for cheap(er) windows then why bother with high-end ones that are of higher energy efficiency?
I've only so far looked at Marvin and Alpen. There are, as others mention, Canadian manufacturers (innotech is one that I would, personally, have under consideration- availability in US is an issue, especially in this day and age).
I have a bit more tolerance in paying for windows for my build knowing that I'll most likely come in substantially less than one similar-sized build that I know of. That build, about 1,500 ft-sq(?) has $26k in windows: totally awesome windows (polarized), and the application of them makes total sense for that build.
I'd look to price out all the components of a build and then see where something can and needs to be cut. Windows are one thing that can be upgraded at a later time. I'm not certain, but, I'm thinking that flange-less windows might be easier to replace/upgrade.
Windows are a major contributor to the economic budget, the energy budget, the construction and livability of a house. I wouldn't dream of treating them as an afterthought in the design. The earlier in the design process the windows are selected, the better. Even just things like using stock sizes instead of custom, which can save 30%. But different manufacturers have different stock sizes.
I wasn't implying to treat them as an afterthought (really, how would one do that unless one wasn't sure one wanted windows or not?). My point was that fixating on window costs at the expense of other things (when there's really no other planning) seems like an inverted approach: would you specify your HVAC before knowing what the required heating and cooling loads are likely to be? (but, the system is spec'd very well!) I would counter thusly: why treat all else as an after thought (to windows)?
I'll be putting in a placeholder for windows (having pricing on stock windows is a good idea) while I work up a budget. If my budget is looking good then I'll look to alter or upscale components (such as windows). But this is me and it's going to be my approach.
To the OP I'd say this: know your basic requirements and targets before getting caught up in window performance (required performance can vary from wall to wall- if you don't know what your walls are doing then that's kind of a horse-bef0re-the-cart thing).
This:
https://www.phius.org/PHIUS+2021/PHIUS%202021%20Prescriptive%20Project%20Specific%20Calculator%20v1.45/PHIUS%202021%20Prescriptive%20Project%20Specific%20Calculator%20v1.45.htm
Combine with a Manual J:
https://loadcalc.net/
Without such numbers one can get carried away with things that aren't of sufficient value. Output for my build showed that numbers for fenestrations would have to be a minimum of U-0.28. Should I shell out for more efficient U-0.15s? If I have ample money perhaps the later; but, ONLY after I ensure that I've met requirements on all other parts of the build.
I understand where your coming from. It’s my belief that all these things should be planned out. I’m not only looking at windows but also wall thickness and what I’m trying to achieve. Also hvac heating etc. I would question how you even know what size windows to draw into your plan without having them at least kind of picked. For me it’s not all or nothing it’s a methodical dance and everything needs to work together. Wi Dow needs to make sense with the walk and the hvac. For instance it wouldn’t make sense to get an r-9 window in a standard 2x4 wall that’s an r-19. So for me figuring all these things out together is imperative for the final design. Thank you for spurring my mind though. I do appreciate what your saying and your style of thinking.