rake wall framing question
john_campbell
| Posted in General Questions on
I am building my own, 2 story house with a single gable roof. i plan on laying out and framing the rake walls on the 2nd floor deck but i have one question. what is the standard way to to incorporate the rafters with the gable wall? I have seen rake wall framed so the rafter sits on top of the rake wall, and i have seen rake walls framed upto the roof sheathing. does this apply more to how the overhang is framed?
the run is 12′ for a 24’x45′ house. 6/12 pitch. these are sawn rafters with a ridge board. the plans are being updated to reduce the overhang to 24” all around.
thanks
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Some thoughts.
The model code IRC2021, chapter 8, Section 802 covers the issues of roof framing. It's available online. It covers rake overhang framing but only for metal construction, not wood. But I recommend you read the section anyway. Your #1 biggest concern is framing your roof to resist wind uplift and this section has a lot of relevant information.
For wood rake overhangs, if your overhang is 9" or less it's simple. You can extend your plywood roof diaphragm out. Support the outer edge with a 2x4 barge board, and tie the barge board back to the wall with 2x4 lookout blocks. If it's more than 9" and less than or equal to 24" there is a different approach. Instead of describing it I'll refer you to the following document from the American Wood Council, which illustrates both and has other useful information.
https://awc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/AWC-WFCM2018-SummaryofChanges-180618-3.pdf
John,
The problem with carrying the wall framing up is that you then lose that last rafter to support the overhang at the eaves - and if you are supporting the overhangs at the rakes with lookouts, that corner is already weak.
Cut the rafter that sits on the exterior wall down 1 1/2" for the lookouts.
Thanks malcolm. that makes sense.
John,
If it doesn't mess up your plans too much I would consider moving the porch over about 16" to the left, so that the whole of the roof is against the house (in just enough so the corner board on the siding can be continuous). That will make flashing and finishing a lot easier, and I think look cleaner.
Good luck with your build!
that's a good idea. the screen porch and deck are not attached to the house, the wall flashing just covers the gap. the back wall is just posts and top beam filled in with 2x for SS screen(black flies). I was going to build the screen porch after the house was done except for the upper siding above the flashing. I have rebuilt so many rotten sill,ledgers and rim joists in Vermont due to decks I wanted mine not to be attached.
That makes a lot of sense.