REMOTE Wall system questions
We are looking to build a small passive solar based house in Michigan (Climate 6A) and have been looking at the REMOTE system with Advanced Framing as a cost effective high energy system.
The builder we have been talking to (great reputation and local to the area but no experience with the technique) have raised a couple of concerns;
“We would have to use angle iron under each window and door in order to support the weight of the windows and doors that cantilever over the 2 x 6″ wall (and more than likely would need to be engineered from this point on up through the 6” to satisfy the building department for this design).
I have no doubt that over time the siding would sag with that type of configuration as it was shown on that website. (http://www.cchrc.org/docs/best_practices/REMOTE_Manual.pdf)
As I said before I agree with the Advanced Wall Framing method but I do believe it slightly compromises the structural integrity. I would feel alot better putting double plates on all walls and jack studs under window and door headers.”
Couple of questions
1) Wouldn’t the installed window and door bucks penetrating the foam, sheathing etc stop the cantileaver effect?
2) Thoughts on double plates and jack studs extra insurance or extra cost?
3) Long term performance experience with Fiber Cement siding attached to furring strips over 4″ foam (The comment above was after I sent through the link from this site on the correct fastners to use.)
Apologies for the long post, appreciate any input especially if you’ve tried and tested the system.
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Replies
Michael,
Plenty of builders have used 3/4-inch plywood boxes to support average-sized residential outie windows in houses with 4 inches of foam sheathing. When it comes to big triple-glazed patio door units, however, it's time to call in an engineer.
Remember, you can always switch to innie windows if you anticipate the installation of huge, heavy, triple-glazed units.
If you follow the furring-strip screw schedule I provided (Fastening Furring Strips to a Foam-Sheathed Wall), your fiber-cement siding will be just fine.
I'm not sure I understand your question about double plates and jack studs -- please rephrase it for me.
Michael,
A single top plate is one of the advanced framing concepts many builders I know eliminate because; stack framing is difficult to implement; and plate splicing connection straps require a lot of nails which compromise the structural integrity of the plate.
You can eliminate jack studs and use header hangers, but you got to provide backing for interior and exterior trim.
If I'm not mistaken, isn't one of the purposes of advanced framing to reduce thermal bridging (double plates, jack studs, etc). Aren't you solving the problem with exterior insulation? If you're using int. trim, as opposed to drywall returns on your outie windows, I'd opt for using a jack stud like Brett said. Martin, do you really want to install windows to 3/4 plywood bucks? Do nails really hold long term?
Aaron,
In addition to the plywood bucks, most builders install a "picture frame" of flat 1x4s around each rough opening; the 1x4s are screwed through the foam to the framing of the rough opening.
What type of window and placement strategy?
Buckouts for windows installed on the exterior wall face can be ¾ cdx ply, Martin pointed out the obvious out that the face is attached and fastened to the 1x4 strapping which creates a very strong assembly. There is no sagging possible…however if you go this direction I would just use 2x8/2x10s for your window openings (whatever thickness you need to meet your assembly) which is faster and stronger.
However of course you should NOT install the window on the exterior but halfway in your wall, which will give you up to 22% efficiency increase in your window assembly if treated accordingly.
I have installed miles of fiber cement board on 9” Remote walls, with the proper screw spacing and pattern there is no issue with weight…you be surprised how strong of an assembly it is, for testing purposes we hung serious weight on the strapping – it is pretty impressive.
Advanced framing in a REMOTE is only important for you to conserve material, resources and money. Since you are thermally isolated you can treat your exterior walls as an interior wall. I like double plates, they just make for a stronger frame.
Can you pls tell me which picture/description of the REMOTE manual triggered your comment: “I have no doubt that over time the siding would sag with that type of configuration as it was shown on that website.” The manual is supposed to be helpful, not confusing. Appreciate it…and happy building, TC