Foam board insulation install
I am not in the building trades so I am seeking some help and advice from the pros.
I contracted to have new vinyl siding applied to my existing home in the Detroit area which included foam board insulation underneath. The crew removed the old aluminum siding and the trim caps around the existing vinyl windows. They applied 3/4in. foam board to the work area and siding channels around the effected windows and corners. This was followed by the new vinyl siding and aluminum trim and gutters.
The house looks very nice but the interior has very cold zones which have become a big problem. I checked the windows to be sure they are closed and all seems good there. I called the contractor out about this condition and he had the installer caulk around the trim where it meets the brickwork but it didn’t cure the condition. I might even be concerned about water drainage now that the escape route is blocked.?
I called the contractor again and he claims the project was done correctly and we must have another issue that is creating the problem. I questioned him about taping the seams and edges of the foam board insulation and he said it was not necessary and would trap moisture against the home. The problem with that explanation is that all of my follow-up to this on the internet DIY videos all show the steps to properly tape the seams, joints, including windows to prevent air leaks. I should also mention that I don’t have this problem at windows that weren’t touched by this project.
Should I expect to have all of the insulation joints/seams sealed?
What is the accepted industry standard for this type of application of foam board?
Did I get a contractor who has (hopefully) the correct materials but is lazy in applying them to ensure they are effective?
I thank you in advance for any advice/info you can provide.
Z Potas
GBA Detail Library
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part
Replies
first, the 3/4 insulation accordion board they used isn't much for insulation, it is only roughly R3.8
its general purpose is to provide a smooth surface/underlayment on which to install the vinyl siding
while you could ask for better flashing and taping, it would generally be extra, and i wouldn't expect a siding only crew to bother to do it right. again, they are not meant to be installing an air barrier and insulation, it is just a smooth backer. if they disturbed a prior barrier like a housewrap, then they should have repaired or replaced it. you could have also asked for a housewrap after the tear off.
caulk won't solve your problems.
a residing of the home shouldn't cause any temperature difference than before with the same outdoor/indoor conditions. the old siding probably had no backing board, and doubtful it had any sort of flashing or seaming.
if it bothers you enough, you'll have to hire a different trust worthy contractor to scope out the problems. if they find something during repair that is negligence due to the prior siding job, you stop them at that issue and get the siding guy to come take a look and fix or pay for it.
Bob,
Thanks for this info, it gave me a better understanding of the process. I have sent my message/complaint out to several sites and I am surprised at the wide range of answers I received. I will look into getting somebody to evaluate the house again. Thank you once again.
Z Potas
Zeno,
There are several issues here.
1. As Bob pointed out, you apparently contracted for the installation of new siding, not for air-sealing or insulation retrofit work. If you wanted to improve the thermal performance of your home, it would have been a great opportunity to do so -- but you would have had to include that work in your specifications and contract. For more information on this topic, see Roofing and Siding Jobs Are Energy-Retrofit Opportunities.
2. In your climate, 3/4-inch thick rigid foam is not thick enough. In general, thin foam is riskier than thick foam. For more information on this topic, see Calculating the Minimum Thickness of Rigid Foam Sheathing.
3. There is no logical reason why your rooms would feel colder after the work you described, so you may need to hire a consultant to visit your home and investigate what is going on.