GBA Logo horizontal Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Picture icon Hamburger Icon Close Icon Sorted

Community and Q&A

Humidity being trapped between an inside vapor barrier and OSB?

user-3811928 | Posted in GBA Pro Help on

As a potential solution for concern about OSB being a vapor barrier, and all the related potential problems for humidity being trapped between the inside vapor barrier and the OSB, an architect has recommended to me to drill 1/2-inch holes every 8 inches throughout the OSB panels to allow humidity to escape to the outside, while the housewrap will prevent water from entering into the OSB.

I would like you to comment on the value of this recommendation.

Thank you in advance for your help,
Regards

Pierre Gingras
Canada

GBA Prime

Join the leading community of building science experts

Become a GBA Prime member and get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

Replies

  1. LucyF | | #1

    Pierre,

    I'm fairly sure Martin Holladay, GBA editor will answer your question in the morning. He gets up crazy early.

    But there have been discussions about this topic before. Drilling holes in your sheathing is contrary to most of the concepts you'll read about in this website. One basic building concept is to make sure air does not flow through your building assembly because air carries moisture with it as well as reducing the effectiveness of your insulation.

    Here is a link to a very good, but fairly lengthy discussion about it on GBA in 2012. https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/general-questions/23219/am-thinking-following-wall-and-roof-assembly-bc-cost-effecti

  2. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #2

    I've become a lot more appreciative of Martin's point of view on this since then, but at the risk of opening this whole can of worms, there is still something that troubles me.
    When we discuss the problem of wet sheathing, one solution suggested is to switch from panel type materials to wood boards (the idea being that they have a better potential of drying to the exterior due to the gaps between them), or to omit the sheathing altogether and rely on a membrane type WRB.
    But in all these options they aren't relying on the Sheathing to deal with wind wash and air-sealing. What is the difference between them?

  3. GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #4

    Pierre,
    Every wall needs at least one air barrier. If you are installing fibrous insulation like fiberglass or mineral wool, it's a good idea to have two air barriers -- one on the exterior side of the insulation, and one on the interior side of the insulation. In no cases is it a good idea to encourage air movement through your wall assembly.

    If you use old-fashioned board sheathing, the sheathing layer is clearly not an air barrier. One can create an exterior air barrier in that case with high quality housewrap, carefully taped -- an imperfect approach in my opinion, but still an option -- or with one or two layers of taped rigid foam on the exterior side of the board sheathing.

    If you use plywood or OSB sheathing, the easiest way to proceed is to tape the seams of the sheathing to create an exterior air barrier. For more information on this approach, see Airtight Wall and Roof Sheathing.

    It really doesn't make any sense to install a panel which is a fairly decent air barrier (OSB) and then to drill holes in it. If you drill holes in your OSB, you are almost certainly degrading the thermal performance of the wall assembly.

    Worries about the "cold OSB" problem are legitimate. (For more information on this problem, see How Risky Is Cold OSB Wall Sheathing?) But the solution to these problems is not to drill holes in your wall. Possible solutions include (1) protecting the OSB with a layer of exterior rigid foam to raise its temperature, (2) including a ventilated rainscreen gap on the exterior side of the OSB to help it dry faster, or (3) switching to plywood.

    Finally, the title of your question -- "Humidity being trapped between an inside vapor barrier and OSB?" -- leads me to believe that you are installing polyethylene on the interior side of the wall. (This is especially likely if you are building in Canada.) In general, interior polyethylene can make moisture problems in walls worse -- especially if the house has air conditioning. If you are worried about these issues, and it sounds like you are, you should switch from interior polyethylene to a "smart" vapor retarder like MemBrain.

  4. GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #5

    Pierre,
    I never directly addressed the question of your architect's advice. In case my previous answer wasn't clear, it's worth mentioning that your architect is wrong.

    You might want to ask your architect this question: "Why do you think that the 1/2-inch holes will help? Do you think that they will help because they will increase air flow, or because they will increase the rate of drying by diffusion?"

    If the architect answers, "Because the holes will increase air flow," you can explain: "But it makes no sense to encourage air flow through a wall assembly. That's the easiest way to undermine the performance of the wall insulation."

    If the architect answers, "Because the holes will increase the rate of drying by diffusion," you can explain: "But diffusion drying is proportional to the area of the material through which the diffusion is occurring. If the wall consists of 98% OSB and 2% holes, then the diffusion through the holes represents only a very tiny improvement in the rate of drying by diffusion. For all intents and purposes, the holes won't help diffusion drying -- unless you want to make the wall 50% holes and 50% OSB."

  5. user-3811928 | | #6

    Thanks Martin for your answer. It does make sense.
    The whole issue has been raised because I was planning to use a (BP) R4 sheating instead of the OSB on this new construction in an effort to try to avoid this humidly "trap". Unfortunately the R4 has been rejected by the engineer on the job because he says it does not have enough strength to act as a good wall bracing for this house structure unless we do all kind of complicated therefore expensive compensation scenario. So we are back with OSB and with the humidy concern.
    I wish someone would come up with an OSB replacement that would have the strength without being a vapor barrier.
    Regards

  6. wjrobinson | | #7

    Pierre, install top quality plywood. Have Owens Corning Energy Complete sealing system if using there products. Then use Membrain instead of poly. http://www.ocenergycomplete.com/

    There are walls with much more insulation and many other materials... read up here and at buildingscience,com.... some ramblings follow;

    Once you spend for a premium build, Icynene water blown products become competitive, double stud superinsulated walls and more,,, SIPs

    We have added rigid foam on the inside under the drywall around these parts for years. OSB under vinyl siding to me holds up OK since the siding acts like it has a built in rain gap.... if sheathing can dry that's good, to me applying rigid foam over OSB (exterior rigid foam) should never happen. If water gets in the tight gap it will rot the wall because it won't get out before rot starts.

  7. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #8

    "If the architect answers, "Because the holes will increase the rate of drying by diffusion," you can explain: "But diffusion drying is proportional to the area of the material through which the diffusion is occurring. If the wall consists of 98% OSB and 2% holes, then the diffusion through the holes represents only a very tiny improvement in the rate of drying by diffusion."

    There is the very obvious answer that has been eluding me.

Log in or create an account to post an answer.

Community

Recent Questions and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |