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Community and Q&A

Insulating to the ridge

idahobuild | Posted in Green Building Techniques on
We plan to act as our own general contractor during for our slab-on-grade, home build next year.  The construction will be in zone 5 (50 miles east of Boise, ID).  I would really like the house to be as air tight as possible and rely on an E/HRV to controlled fresh air.

Current Insulation Plan
SLAB – 3″ of rigid foam (R10) below the slab with 1″ rigid (R5) vertically along the perimeter.  
WALLS – 2″ of rigid foam on the exterior of the sheathing and 5.5″ of mineral wool (R23) in the cavities.
ROOF – 6″ of closed-cell, spray foam (R42) on the underside of the roof decking.  

Current Water/Vapor/Air Barrier Plan
SLAB – 10 mil poly taped and sealed at all penetrations and tied to the exterior walls. Note – still working on the tie-in detail since the floors throughout the home are set to be polished concrete.
WALLS – Tape and seal the rigid foam (with manufacturer recommended tape) at all junctions, the soffit, slab and all penetrations.
ROOF – Closed-cell, spray foam into the soffit and up to the ridge.  Roof is likely to be standing seam metal.

QUESTION:
If I get the spray foam above code minimum for ceilings in Idaho (R30); are these plans sound?

I am shooting for R42 (about 6″ of closed-cell foam); do I need to go any higher/thicker with the spray foam? 

 
Thoughts….
Thanks.

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    MALCOLM TAYLOR | | #1

    Idahobuild,

    Your plans sound good. A couple of suggestions you may want to consider:

    - Taping the sheathing rather than the foam may be easier and make the transitions at the slab, openings and roof easier too.

    - You may want to consider a hybrid approach to the roof which uses less foam.
    https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/five-cathedral-ceilings-that-work

  2. idahobuild | | #2

    Thanks.

    (image added)

    We'll be using trusses so, I'm not sure the hybrid approach would work as it looks like the change requires a cathedral ceiling. Our roof will be trussed and I am asking the installer to spray around the truss. I guess I'll lose some R-value at these locations since wood has a R-value closer to 1 per inch. But I'm hoping to make up for that with a good tight air seal.

    Does that make sense?

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