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Community and Q&A

Support for pantry walls and shelves

PLIERS | Posted in General Questions on

So I got a lot of help on building my pantry doors so trying to make sure I’m building shelving that can support the weight.  The space is 79inches wide and 24 inches deep.  Picture attached.  I’m basically building a wide closet.  I’m going to attach 1×3 cleats on the right and left interior wall to studs.  Then attach a 2×4 on flat to cleats for my door framing.  Im going to use hollow double doors that will be 72×80.  On the back wall I’m attaching 2×3 cleats going across entire wall lining up with both side wall cleats  and attached to studs.  All my shelving will be 1×12 pine all around.  I’m going to use 2 inch deck screws for all my framing.  The shelves I will screw into the cleats from top of shelf.  Please let me know if I need more support.  Do I need to add metal brackets, or 2×2 in corners for additional support?  The heaviest items would be things like a heavy pots and pans or appliances.  Thanks Joe

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    BILL WICHERS | | #1

    I think you’ll probably probably be ok. I would glue the shelf planks to the shelf framing all the way around to help keep gaps from opening up between screws over time. I use finger joints between those 1x12 planks to keep them aligned so that the surface stays smooth over time to allow for easy sliding of big pots.

    If you can add a center support your shelves will be MUCH stiffer. At a minimum, I would put some 1x3 down the middle (front to back) of each shelf to help the surface to resist cupping.

    It might be worth an inside corner bracket to help tie those 1x3s together, but a good glue+screw joint alone would probably be ok. You could route those joints too for more gluing surface.

    One last thing: test one of those shelves with around the weight of the stuff you plan to store on it. I don’t think it will break, but you might not be happy with the amount of deflection you get.

    Bill

  2. PLIERS | | #2

    Bill thank you. What if I added a 2x2 at each inside corner and in the middle of my long wall and then use metal brackets to attach it to that. Saw someone do this online I attached a picture. Would I still put a 1x3 front to back down middle of each shelf in addition to this? I never made a finger joint, I was just going to butt shelves together. Is a 45 degree miter joint on inside corners I better connection than butt joints. Obviously finger joint would be best but don’t have any experience doing that. I could also beef up my 1x3 pieces to 2x3 and still have a 73 inch door opening for my 2 36 inch doors.

  3. STEPHEN SHEEHY | | #3

    It might be much easier to use vertical shelf supports at 32" apart. Then you can adjust the spaces between shelves to fit what you're storing.

    I usually use 3/4 prefinished plywood for shelves, with a 1 1/4 hardwood front, glued to the plywood to make a finished edge and also stiffen the shelves.
    12" is pretty wide for pantry shelves. Mine are 10" and 8" and hold a lot of stuff. If you go too wide, stuff is hard to access.

  4. PLIERS | | #4

    Ok so I think what I’m going to do is build my 2x3 cleats. Every 32 inches or wherever stud falls I’m going to place a vertical piece of 2x3 the fits in between shelves then use metal brackets to connect shelves on those points. I’m also going to use a 2x2 in front of shelves at each inside corner and down the middle of shelf on long wall then connect with metal brackets. Finally place a 1x3 front to back down center of every shelf, probably 2 points on long shelf. I think they will be more than strong enough. Should I stay with screws or use nails?

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