Spray Foam Insulation: Open and Closed Cell

Spray Foam Is the King of Insulations — Stellar Performance and a Price to Match

UPDATED 4/11/2014

Open-Cell Foam

Open-cell foams are permeable to moisture and impermeable to air

R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. per inch: about 3.6
Cost: about $0.44 to $0.65 per board foot

Although open-cell foam costs less than closed-cell foam, it has a lower R-value per inch, so a thicker layer is required. If the framing members are deep enough to accommodate your required R-value, open-cell foam may end up costing less.

More on open-cell spray foam

Closed-Cell Foam

Closed-cell foams stop air and moisture

R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. per inch: about 6.5
Cost: about $0.70 to $1 per board foot

Closed-cell foam isn't cheap, but it provides a much higher R-value per inch than open-cell foam. Because of its density and glue-like tenacity, it also adds structural strength to a wall, ceiling, or roof assembly.

More on closed-cell spray foam

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

Air sealing with spray foam
Spray polyurethane foam is a powerful tool in the air sealer's kit. For many air-sealing tasks — for example, sealing rim joists or the attic side of partition top plates — it's hard to beat spray foam.

SOY-BASED FOAMS: GREEN OR GREENWASH?

All spray foams contain petroleum-based chemicals Some spray-foam manufacturers, including BioBased Insulation, Demilec, and IcyneneOpen-cell, low-density spray foam insulation that can be used in wall, floor, and roof assemblies. It has an R-value of about 3.6 per inch and a vapor permeability of about 10 perms at 5 inches thick., have "greened" their spray-foam formulas by reducing the percentage of petroleum-based chemicals in their B component, but not their A component.

A portion of the polyol resin — itself only a fraction of the B component — in these products has been replaced with a resin derived from soy oil or castor oil.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has ruled that only 7% of a spray-foam product needs to be made of a renewable resource to be labeled as a bio-based foam.

CODE ISSUES

Most inspectors require spray foam to be covered with an approved thermal barrier (for example, 1/2-in. drywall): Section R314.4 of the IRCInternational Residential Code. The one- and two-family dwelling model building code copyrighted by the International Code Council. The IRC is meant to be a stand-alone code compatible with the three national building codes—the Building Officials and Code Administrators (BOCA) National code, the Southern Building Code Congress International (SBCCI) code and the International Conference of Building Officials (ICBO) code. requires, "Unless otherwise allowed in Section R314.5 or R314.6" — sections that allow various exceptions, including the use of mineral fiber insulation, wood, or steel as thermal barriers — "foam plastic [insulation] shall be separated from the interior of a building by an approved thermal barrier of minimum 0.5 inch gypsum wallboard." For more information, see Thermal Barriers and Ignition Barriers for Spray Foam.

Post proof at the panel. Section N1101.8 of the IRC requires: "A permanent certificate shall be posted on or in the electrical distribution panel. The certificate shall be completed by the builder or registered design professional. The certificate shall list the predominant R-values of insulation installed in or on ceiling/roof, walls, foundation (slab, basement wall, crawlspace wall and/or floor) and ducts outside conditioned spaces..."

WHAT ABOUT THE GLOBAL WARMING IMPACT OF INSULATION CHOICES?

In a landmark Environmental Building News article, Alex Wilson looked into the global warming impact of rigid foam and spray foam insulations. To learn more about this important topic, see Avoiding the Global Warming Impact of Insulation and Calculating the Global Warming Impact of Insulation.

PROBLEMS WITH LINGERING ODORS?

Some green builders are wary of using spray foam in an occupied house, worrying that a bad foam mix might cause irritating odors that linger for weeks. Some homeowners have reported health problems that they attribute to such lingering odors.

To learn more, see Spray Foam Jobs With Lingering Odor Problems.

ABOUT SPRAY FOAM INSULATION

Spray polyurethane foam (SPF) is better than any other type of insulation at reducing air leakage.

With foamed-in-place insulation, it is relatively easy (though not inexpensive) to fill wall and ceiling cavities completely. Closed-cell spray foam provides a higher R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. per inch (6.5) than less expensive insulation types like cellulose and fiberglass (3.5 to 3.7).

Most spray polyurethane foam is called "two-component" foam. Two ingredients—conventionally called "A" and "B" components—are mixed on site using special equipment mounted in a trailer or truck. Heated hoses convey the components to a mixing gun that sprays the chemicals on the surfaces to be insulated.

A chemical reaction begins as soon as the chemicals are mixed. The liquid mixture foams, expands, and eventually hardens.

Choose a conscientious installer

Most jobs are for pros
Spray polyurethane foam is usually installed by a spray-foam contractor equipped with a truck or trailer to carry the necessary chemicals and spray equipment.

For smaller jobs, builders can purchase disposable tanks of two-component polyurethane foam. These tanks are sold in various sizes, and range in cost from about $200 to $500. For very small jobs, small aerosol cans of one-component (moisture-cured) polyurethane foam can be purchased at most building-supply stores for about $5 a can.

Experience matters
Although spray polyurethane foam has many advantages over other types of insulation, spray foam installation isn't foolproof. Some builders have reported problems with sloppy foam insulation. For example, some installers have been known to begin spraying before the chemical components are up to temperature, which can affect component mixing and foam performance. When components are poorly mixed, or mixed in the wrong ratio or at the wrong temperature, cured foam has been known to shrink away from rafters or studs, leaving cracks. Some installers rush through their spraying, resulting in voids.

As with any type of insulation—whether fiberglass batts, cellulose, or spray foam—it's important to choose an installer with a good reputation; to monitor the installer's work; and to verify that the insulation work meets expectations before making the final payment on the job.

Spray foam is messy
GBAGreenBuildingAdvisor.com advisor Michael Chandler provided memorable advice to builders contemplating their first spray-foam job in his February 2009 Fine Homebuilding article, "Prepping for Spray Foam."

“As the foam is sprayed, small expanding droplets of foam end up in the air. This stuff gets in your hair, on your skin and clothes, and all over any building materials or tools inside the house. I once failed to warn a homeowner of the mess. He was excited to capture the spray-foam-insulation process with his video camera. He got only a small amount of footage and never got to use the camera again. The best bet is to get everybody who’s not part of the foam crew out of the house. Have some helpers nearby to watch the installation, and be ready with drop cloths, tape, and caulk to stop or catch any drips that find their way to the exterior of the house.”

OPEN-CELL FOAM

Half-pound foam, also known as open-cell foam, has a density of about 0.5 lb. per cubic foot and an R-valueMeasure of resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the lower the heat loss. The inverse of U-factor. of 3.5 or 3.6 per inch.

Open-cell foam is relatively vapor-permeable. Three inches of open-cell foam have a permeance of 16 perms.

Some of the low-density foams are made in part from bio-based raw materials — for example, soybean oils — in place of a portion of the petrochemicals. Open-cell foams use water or carbon dioxide as the blowing agent.

Compared with closed-cell polyurethane, open-cell products use significantly less material, making them attractive from a resource-use standpoint. However, open-cell foams have a lower R-value per inch than closed-cell foams.

Open-cell foam ofter requires an interior vapor retarder. When used to create a cathedralized atticAn unvented attic with insulation installed between the rafters or above the roof sheathing. Moving the insulation from the attic floor to the roof plane turns the attic into conditioned or semi-conditioned space; this is especially beneficial in homes with attic ductwork. The term “cathedralized attic” usually refers to an attic that does not include finished space. in a cold climate (climate zones 5 and higher), open-cell foam should always include a vapor retarder (for example, a layer of gypsum wallboard finished with vapor-retarder paint). Recent research has shown that vapor-retarder paint is ineffective when sprayed directly onto cured foam insulation, so cold-climate builders who don't plan to cover the spray foam with a layer of drywall should stick with closed-cell spray foam.

Open-cell foam is riskier than closed-cell foam when it is installed on the underside of roof sheathingMaterial, usually plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), but sometimes wooden boards, installed on the exterior of wall studs, rafters, or roof trusses; siding or roofing installed on the sheathing—sometimes over strapping to create a rainscreen. . Evidence is accumulating that roof sheathing can get wet when open-cell foam is sprayed directly against the underside of roof sheathing. For more information on this problem, see Open-Cell Spray Foam and Damp Roof Sheathing.

CLOSED-CELL FOAM

Two-pound foam, also known as closed-cell foam, has a density of about 2 lb. per cubic foot and an R-value of 6 to 6.5 per inch. Two-pound foam is significantly more expensive than half-pound foam.

Closed-cell foam is a vapor retarder. Two and a half inches of closed-cell foam have a permeance of 0.8 perm.

The blowing agents in most types of closed-cell spray polyurethane foam are hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) with a high global warming potential. Because the global warming potential of these damaging blowing agents is 1,430 times more potent than carbon dioxide, many green builders avoid the use of closed-cell spray foam. For more information, see Calculating the Global Warming Impact of Insulation.

Some insulation contractors install a thin layer of closed-cell spray foam in conjunction with fiberglass batts. For more information on this method, see Why Flash and Batt Makes Sense.

FURTHER RESOURCES

"Prepping for Spray Foam" by Michael Chandler, Fine Homebuilding, February/March 2009

"Spray Foam: What Do You Really Know?" by Rob Yagid, Fine Homebuilding, June/July 2009

Avoiding the Global Warming Impact of Insulation

Calculating the Global Warming Impact of Insulation

Thermal Barriers and Ignition Barriers for Spray Foam


Image Credits:

  1. Daniel Morrison
  2. Toshi Woudenberg
Tags: , , , , , ,
33.
Tue, 07/01/2014 - 15:20

Response to Linda Quarshie
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Linda,
The best place to post your question is on our Q&A page. That way, more readers will see your question and be able to offer advice. Here is the link:
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/qa


32.
Tue, 07/01/2014 - 15:15

Spray Foam - Chicago
by Linda Quarshie

We are remodeling a home and have been looking for the right kind of insullation, we know that the spray foam is most efficient but we are tight on budget, we have taked to a company but the cost was pretty high. Curious about the following:
1. Can you recommend a company or two in Chicago?
2. will you recommend we do Closed cell in the roof and something else in the walls for cost savings and what that will be?
3. will you recommend something else for the basement walls since it is pretty cool down there to minimize extreme coolness?
Thank You!


31.
Fri, 01/06/2012 - 15:59

Spray Foam Insulation
by mary johansen

I recently did a remodel project for my basement using spray foam insulation. The original builder has used fiberglass, but I wanted the best insulation i could find. We chose closed cell foam because it blocks moisture from getting into the house. It took one day to install and was fumey for about 3 hours. It was pretty cool watching it being done. It comes out as a liquid and then expands rapidly into a foam. It's quick! Then they took a types of saw to shave it flat with the wall studs so we could then go ahead and drywall.

I was very pleased with the installation and I highly recommend it.


30.
Wed, 12/14/2011 - 20:54

Response to Leslie
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Leslie,
It should be possible to remove the cured foam and to install a fire-resistant insulation like mineral wool in the resulting gap.


29.
Wed, 12/14/2011 - 20:20

Spray foam applied directly to chimney (2)
by Leslie Badger

Hi Martin
Thank you for the reply and the links. We are definitely aware that a mistake was made (this wasn't the only one). I'm wondering if you have any advice for fixing the problem. What would be entailed in trying to remove the foam from the chimney?
thanks again


28.
Wed, 12/14/2011 - 13:18

Edited Wed, 12/14/2011 - 13:19.

Response to Leslie Badger
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Leslie,
Your spray foam installer made a mistake.

Here is a quote from technical specifications prepared by BASF, a spray foam manufacturer:

http://www2.basf.us/basf-canada/productsheets/walltite/wltnms2-E.pdf
"Do not spray polyurethane foam any closer than 75 mm (3 inches) from chimneys, heating vents, steam pipes, recessed lighting fixtures, and other heat sources."

Here is a quote from a document prepared by the Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance:

http://www.selacaci.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/BE-Inspector-Chapter-...
"Do not apply spray polyurethane foam within 3” (75 mm) of chimneys or flues or other heat producing appliances."


27.
Wed, 12/14/2011 - 13:11

Spray foam applied directly to chimney
by Leslie Badger

I don't even want to ask this question but... several years ago we hired a local contractor to spray high density foam on the roof deck and walls of our unfinished 2nd floor. We realized that the job was done poorly and cut an access into the attic space to assess things. We realize now that they spray foamed directly to the chimney (no flashing). The chimney is currently used for a woodstove and DHW venting. The DHW will go away but wood stove will remain. My question is, how bad (unsafe) is this? I have found information on foam exposure to fire but have not been able to find anything about temperature ratings in general (i.e. what happens on prolonged exposure to high temperatures).
thank you


26.
Mon, 01/31/2011 - 12:03

Response to BP
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

BP,
It would be possible -- but it would be more expensive than just installing the closed-cell foam.

Closed-cell and open-cell foam require different chemicals -- and usually different trailers or installation trucks, and often different contractors. So your suggestion requires two trips to the site -- two trucks -- two contractors -- and much higher deployment costs. You'll pay more doing it your way.


25.
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 13:38

Combine closed and open cell in wall
by BP

Would it be possible to use 2" of the closed cell and then 3.5" open cell in my new construction in order to get the benefit of higher R value and vapor barrier but at a lower cost.


24.
Thu, 01/20/2011 - 22:26

Response to Eric
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Eric,
I'm afraid you got it backwards.

You "took out one inch styrofoam [XPS] covered by 1/4 " beadboard [EPS]." Oops -- you should have left those in place -- those are appropriate insulation materials for a basement.

Then you write that you "plan on putting in fiberglass batts." Oops -- big mistake. Fiberglass batts are inappropriate for insulating a basement wall.


23.
Thu, 01/20/2011 - 21:58

Not sure I did enough.
by Eric

I'm in the process of redoing my basement and read through the posts. I took out one inch styrofoam covered by 1/4 " beadboard and installed 2X4s and plan on putting in fiberglass batts between them(r-13) with 1/2 in drywall over top of that. Do you think I will see a significat increase in heat control? Should I have done more?... it's a little after the fact, but still curious to know if I will see a big difference based on your experience.

Thanks,
Eric


22.
Thu, 01/20/2011 - 05:35

Spray foam on Romex
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Greg,
Spray foam is used around Romex wiring all the time. However, it is a code violation to install spray foam inside of an electrical box. Your electrical inspector was probably concerned that the foam would fill some of the space inside the box -- a violation.


21.
Wed, 01/19/2011 - 21:58

Spray foam
by Greg

Is it safe to use the can spray foam around electric outlets. I had an electrical inspector tell me I couldn't get the foam on any romex wire.


20.
Sat, 01/15/2011 - 16:26

Response to Joe Keegan
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Joe,
Q. "Can I spray closed-cell against the attic floor in same way as installing batts, thus leaving my venting the same as it always has been?"

A. Yes.


19.
Sat, 01/15/2011 - 16:09

Closed Cell Foam in attic and in crawl space
by Joe Keegan

I live in Baton Rouge LA with a very old and drafty house. There is no blockages in the walls between the crawl space and attic. Lots of critters just come on in. I would like to used closed cell sprayed under house to warm up floors and block moisture. I would like to spray closed cell into attic, but am afraid of enclosing attic due to moisture build-up. Can I spray closed cell against the attic floor in same way as installing bats, thus leaving my venting the same as it always has been. Other ideas? Thanks.


18.
Fri, 10/15/2010 - 04:33

Response to Biff
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Biff,
It's almost impossible for any Web site to keep current with pricing information. Moreover, prices for residential insulation vary widely across the country. When comparing two different regions, prices can easily differ by a factor of 2 or 3.

Here's how to determine the local price: call three reputable contractors and ask for bids. Now you know your price.


17.
Thu, 10/14/2010 - 16:34

Is pricing current info (2010)?
by Biff

We're doing a kitchen/bath renovation. We're in Massachusetts, and have high wind on this particular wall. But, we can't afford to do the whole house right now, so is this a waste of $? Won't the cold just get in through the other 3 (uninsulated) walls?

Also, I'm wondering... Is this website is being regularly updated? A local installer (in Oct, 2010) in MA quoted over twice the price you list here. "Open cell alone ~$1.35 per sq ft for R-13. Or a 'hybrid method' using 2inch closed cell for R-13 followed by 1.5inch open cell for R-6. Hybrid is $2.85 per sq foot for R-19 rating". Maybe installers are charging higher prices to profit from those trying to meet government energy rebate by Dec 31?

Being green is hard. But, this site is helping.


16.
Wed, 09/15/2010 - 12:55

Response to Bob Rinehuls
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Q. "Is there any concern about moisture accumulation between the foam and the roof deck, say, if the roof leaked?"

A. Yes, many builders and homeowners have expressed that concern. If you want to be able to inspect the roof sheathing for possible roof leaks, it's best to design either an unconditioned attic, or a conditioned attic with all of the insulation located above the roof sheathing.

Q. "Has it become standard practice to apply stick-on membrane to roof decks when re-shingling?"

A. No. In areas subject to ice damming problems, roofers usually install 3 ft. or 6 ft. of peel-and-stick rubber membrane near the eaves, but usually not over the entire roof. Covering the entire roof with peel-and-stick membrane reduces the ability of the roof sheathing to dry to the exterior.

Q. "Should this added measure be taken if re-roofing at time of foaming rafters?"

A. I wouldn't do it.


15.
Wed, 09/15/2010 - 12:47

spray foaming rafters, rubber membrane
by Bob RinehulsAnonymous

Is there any concern about moisture accumulation between the foam and the roof deck, say, if the roof leaked? Has it become standard practice to apply stick-on membrane to roof decks when re-shingling? I see them doing it here in N. Florida. Should this added measure be taken if re-roofing at time of foaming rafters ?


14.
Sun, 07/04/2010 - 16:44

response to Martin - R values
by Nathan Middleton

Martin,
My statment that "R-values are not linear per per thickness of insulation" was absolutely correct.
Your discussion suggesting that, R value calculated from insulation thickness as an acurate enough method for builders, was exactly my point about mis-conceptions in the building industry. These type of generalizations can lead to wrong conclusions with regard to wall thickness and insulation values.
This is a very important point in a very complex subject, which will require a complex discussion, however there is some good data that explains this issue, provided by the Federal Trade Commision. I will provide more specifics if you want it.

regards,

Nathan


13.
Sun, 07/04/2010 - 16:10

Response to Nathan
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Nathan,
You wrote, "R-values are not linear per per thickness of insulation."

Actually, they are, as a general rule -- assuming that increased thickness does not alter density. There are a few mathematical reasons why this general rule has a few minor exceptions; but as a general principal, it holds with enough accuracy to be a good rule for builders.

Once you know the R-value per inch of a given insulation material, it's pretty easy to calculate the R-value of a known thickness of that material.


12.
Sun, 07/04/2010 - 11:53

response to Martin
by Nathan Middleton

Martin,
Yes -it is true that "Heat transfer through an R-40 wall will be at half the rate as heat transfer through an R-20 wall" in theory but there are many variables that are mis-directed in the industry.
Some of them are:
a) Context and relative efficiency - temperature differences between inside and outside and do you need R40 when an R20 wall, that is air tight, will perform sufficiently given that so many other factors in a building are contributing to energy loss?.
b) Cost - In the case of closed cell application - filling the 6" wall cavity instead of only installing 2 inches of thickness, would be better but - it will cost substanitally more and it will not provide double the R value. In fact the R value increase will be around 6-8%
c) R values are not linear per per thickness of insulation. i.e the composition of an R20 wall at 6" thickness will not provide an R40 wall at 12" thick.
d) The reality between actual wall performance and theoretical wall R values is surprisingly lower. primarily due to air leakage through the wall and air movment inside the wall cavity (with batt insiulation).


11.
Sun, 07/04/2010 - 05:26

Reponse to Nathan
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Nathan,
I know that many spray-foam contractors repeat this myth -- "additional insulation value beyond ... R-20 is not really necessary" -- but it isn't true. Heat transfer through an R-40 wall will be at half the rate as heat transfer through an R-20 wall.


10.
Sun, 07/04/2010 - 00:02

spray foam
by Nathan Middleton

The reasons that we chose open cell over closed cell were:
a) Cost
b) Open cell is more copatible with wood in terms of moisture absorbtion
c) Closed cell is typiclly installed as a thin layer of about 2 inched thick where as the full wall cavity application of open cell reduces thermal bridging of the studs.
d) Air tighness is the parimount issue - additional insulation value beyond a 6" stud cavity providing R20 is not really nessesary unless temperatures are very extreme.


9.
Sat, 07/03/2010 - 23:44

spray foam
by Nathan Middleton

We have just finished using open cell spray foam in our house and received an outstanding air leakage rate of 1.32 ARC. Most of this air tightness is atributed to the spray foam.
A couple of issues to be aware of when using spray foam:
a) Make sure that your house has been well heated prior to installation because the foam expands at different rates as it hits surfaces with different temperatures. If it is cold outside the sheathing may be much colder than the studs consequently the foam may expand more from the sides of the wall cavity creating air pockets in the wall cavity. This can be minimized by an experienced installer.
b) Expanding foam goes into all cavities including gaps in sheathing and electrical boxes. Tape these openings up.
c) Make sure that the over expanded access is properly removed from the walls. We had a junior cutter taking too much off by bending his saw into the cavity. Look closely at the inside wall corners, and ceiling/wall corners to make sure that the foam is properly removed flush with the studs. If it has not been cut back flush it may lead to uneven drywall finishes .


8.
Wed, 06/30/2010 - 07:57

Reply to Chris
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Chris,
Either will work. Get the highest R-value you can afford -- and be sure that the R-value of the installed insulation AT LEAST meets minimum code requirements.


7.
Wed, 06/30/2010 - 06:29

spray foam
by chris

I live in south louisina and just raised my home eight feet off the ground. Want to insulate, but not sure what to go with - open cell or closed cell because it is outside and it is humid where I live. What is the best choice?


6.
Thu, 04/08/2010 - 15:57

Looks like you're on the right track
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Anonymous,
Your plan will work.


5.
Thu, 04/08/2010 - 15:37

best method to isulate
by Anonymous

I am planning to finish my basement. I plan to to put one inch of XPS foam on the floor and then Home Advantage 23/32 CAT Enhanced OSB Sub-floor (from Homedepot) on top of it.

Then I plan to build a 2×4 stud wall with 1.5 inch gap between the concrete and the stud. I plan to get all my electrical work done before I get 2 inches of closed cell foam sprayed against the concrete.
Additionally I plan to use blown in fiberglass in the remaining cavities between the stud. I plan to put house wrap stapled to the studs and blow the fiberglass insulation from the top.
I want to keep my basement real warm. I was planning to do cellulose but then I read to not use cellulose where moisture could be an issue.

As of now my basment is pretty dry or visibly dry . Its a new construction less than 2 years old.

Can you advise me if I am going in the right direction? I live in Iowa


4.
Mon, 02/22/2010 - 13:46

Different densities
by Martin Holladay, GBA Advisor

Richard,
I think you are talking about different densities, not different weights.

The denser the foam (up to a point), the greater the R-value per inch.

The thicker the foam, the higher the R-value. If you don't cover the rafters completely, your roof assembly will have thermal bridging through the rafters, which is undesirable.


3.
Mon, 02/22/2010 - 12:59

open cell
by richard

i understand from my installer that there are different weights of open cell spray foam which are more thermally efficient and also help structurally. any info on either. also how much of a difference does it make if the roof rafters are completely covered versus say 3 1/2 inches between rafters


2.
Tue, 02/16/2010 - 19:57

Foam and Panels
by Bonnie Pickartz

Great information.

We made the move to polyurethane foam structural insulated panels over 12 years ago and have never looked back. We are confident that we are providing our clients with the best insulation available.


1.
Tue, 02/16/2010 - 18:29

Spray foam pricing
by JJ Boudreau

First, I want to commend you on your great post. It is very informative for someone looking for the basics and even has a few good points beyond your average consumer, like the information regarding ignition barriers and code compliance.

One thing I wanted to mention was that I think your price point is a little high and that might deter people from considering spray foam. As a project manager for a spray foam company for years I can tell you that we offer 0.5 Lb. open-cell foam at around $.25/board foot. We even offer a 1.0 Lb. open-cell foam for less/the same cost as you quoted the 0.5 Lb. foam for above. The 1/0 Lb. open-cell foam has an R-value of almost 5.

There is significant competition in our region (New England) and through research we have seen stiff competition as far as pricing goes. For consumers, you should know that there is NO set price for spray foam. The more you have done, the cheaper it will be.


Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!