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Musings of an Energy Nerd

Crawl Spaces vs. Skirts

If you have a house on piers, should you enclose the space under the house or leave it open?

In a warm climate, a mobile home skirt doesn't have to be airtight. This home is in a state where pipes are very unlikely to freeze, so there isn't any need to build an insulated skirt. In a colder climate, it would make sense to bury the bottom plate of the skirt, to install airtight skirt sheathing, and to include a layer of continuous rigid foam.
Image Credit: LanaiLens

Many older homes in rural areas have pier foundations. The piers may be made of wood (for example, creosoted posts or pressure-treated lumber), poured concrete, CMUs, or bricks. The space between the dirt and the underside of the floor framing may be enclosed or may be entirely open to the wind.

This type of home is more common down South than up North, because cold-climate builders have to find a way to keep the plumbing pipes from freezing. (It’s easier to keep pipes from freezing if a house has a crawl space or a basement than if the house is on piers.) That said, even up north, many rural homes (including mobile homes) have pier foundations.

Owners of homes on piers face several questions:

Should the area under the house be enclosed?

As long as there is no evidence that the insulation in the floor assembly is being disturbed, or that rodents are chewing holes to gain access to the house, there is no pressing need to enclose the space under a house on piers.

Leaving this space wide-open to the weather works better when piers are relatively high than when piers are relatively low, and works better when the floor assembly is airtight and well insulated than when the floor assembly is leaky and poorly insulated.

Problems occur when the spaces between the floor joists are insulated with poorly protected fiberglass batts. If these batts are held in place by chicken wire, it won’t take long for the mice, squirrels, and raccoons to move in. On the other hand, if the underside of the joist bays are sealed with a layer of carefully installed plywood or OSB, there are far fewer reasons for concern.

What’s better: a conventional crawl space foundation or a skirt?

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  1. Bob Manninen | | #1

    You realize of course, that your house will rot
    When you completely enclose the underside of the building on piers, the house will "rot" unless you can prevent the moisture from the ground from migrating into the building on piers. I have a camp in Maine, and this is what happened. I had to remove the foam enclosed skirting around the outside because there was so much moisture under the building (especially after the ground thawed) that was saturating the structure under the building. I then went with the "lattice" work skirting option (also impermeable foam panels covering the floor structure, as suggested by Joe Lstiburek) . Now, if the ground can be covered in polyethylene, and any runoff can be diverted to not flow under the building, the enclosed skirting might work, although I do not have any personal experience with this arrangement.
    So, I suppose in a dry climate where there isn't any moisture that can migrate into the building, the completely enclosed skirting technique can work, but in our "frosty" climates, I have to disagree.

  2. User avater GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #2

    Response to Bob Manninen
    Thanks for you comments.

    As my article on sealed crawl spaces makes clear, this type of crawl space must always include polyethylene on the dirt, as well as proper grading around the perimeter of the house to direct surface water away from the building.

    These requirements are identical whether the crawl space walls are made of concrete or pressure-treated studs.

    Since some people might forget these facts, I have added a new paragraph to my article that underlines the importance of following all of the basic requirements of any sealed crawl space.

  3. User avater GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #3

    Note to GBA readers
    I'll be on vacation from July 24 to August 7 -- back at my desk on August 8.

    So anyone who directs questions my way during the next two weeks will have to wait until August 8 for an answer.

  4. Malcolm Taylor | | #4

    The building codes I am familiar with confirm Martin's practical and building science advice. They make no distinction in whether the area under the house is enclosed by a skirt or foundation walls. Once it is enclosed it is subject to all the requirements of a crawlspace, including access to services, minimum heights, vapour barriers, ventilation, radon mitigation etc.

  5. S.S. MacDonald | | #5

    Vapor barrier between joists and subfloor?
    I'm building a 4 season cabin on short piers (varying between 24" and 48" due to sloping terrain) in climate zone 8 near Yellowknife. Still not sure wether to skirt the perimeter or not, it could be difficult to install given the entire site is sloping, jagged bedrock. On the other hand, I'm worried about critters moving in. Also wondering if 6 mil poly should be installed between the floor joists (2"x10") and the 5/8" osb subfloor, connecting to the poly on the exterior walls? The floor will be insulated with fiberglass batts. The underside of the floor joists will be sheathed with 1/2" osb. thanks, Shawn

  6. User avater GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #6

    Response to S.S. MacDonald
    You don't need to install polyethylene between the floor joists and the subfloor, since OSB is a perfectly adequate vapor retarder. Just install the OSB with attention to airtightness (easily accomplished by the use of construction adhesive when installing the subfloor). For more information on this type of floor assembly, see How to Insulate a Cold Floor.

    In Yellowknife, which has bitterly cold winters, your biggest challenge with this type of foundation will be figuring out how to keep your plumbing pipes from freezing. Good luck.

  7. S.S. MacDonald | | #7


  8. Michael Bluejay | | #8

    How to build a skirt when there's not enough room for framing?
    The dirt level was perilously close to the bottom of my house. I excavated 6" below the bottom floor joist, but that still leaves precious little room to install a wood frame, especially if I want to maintain sufficient clearance between the ground and the wood.

    I do have some HDPE 2x4s left over from another project that I'm thinking I could use to build my frame, because I can run them to the ground, along with an HDPE bottom plate, and they won't rot. They're not structural, but I don't think they need to be for this application, especially because the lengths will be so short. On the outside I could screw corrugated plastic paneling to the HDPE frame and on the inside I could screw foil-faced rigid foamboard to it. Does this sound like a good plan?

  9. User avater GBA Editor
    Martin Holladay | | #9

    Response to Michael Bluejay
    There are several possible ways to address your foundation problems. What you end up doing depends on your budget.

    The correct answer to your dilemma is to jack up your house before improving the foundation.

    If you don't want to do that, the second-best alternative is to lower the grade around your house, so that you have a higher crawl space, and so that rain will flow away from the house in all directions. With most homes -- homes with walkways, stairs, and landscape plantings -- this option is unrealistic, so it's usually easier to jack up the house than to lower the grade.

    Anything short of these two options should be considered a temporary compromise. You can rig something up with materials left over from another project, but that approach may still leave your joists at risk of rot.

    So here's my answer: Jack up the house and install a conventional crawl space foundation with poured concrete walls. If you can't afford that, jack up the house and install a new pier foundation.

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